Wednesday, August 30, 2017

20m Moxon Antenna Portable Build

I removed the last two sections of the crappie spreader poles.  I might put one back in, and use half of it, but it works now.


After having a great deal of success with a 20m moxon at my QTH, I decided to build a portable version, based on help from The Moxon Antenna Project by KD6WD.  My goal was to be able to work from a small mountain near my home, and do so at QRO power levels, with a beam antenna.  I also wanted to use up several scrap pieces of random PVC and pipe I had laying around.

I recognized the 100w QRO power part of the goal when I added a 10Ah Lifepo4 battery, with a 20Ah BMS draw.  With it, I can now operate for 3 to 4 hours at 100w typical hunt-and-peck SSB operation, along with some CQ'ing, before I have to drop wattage to 50w, or so.  With the Moxon beam, created by Les Moxon, I will realize my goal, and have a portable antenna capable of being constructed in 20 minutes, and fully guyed to as high as 8m on my Spiderbeam mast, in under 30 minutes.

I've been able to hit Europe with a 20m vertical dipole, and completed several 4.000-5,000 mile QSO's without much difficulty, from the mountain.  To run a pile-up into the EU, however, I know I have to increase my power.  There's no way for me to carry an amp (or to plug it in) on the mountain, so I was itching for a better antenna.  Adding a moxon beam gives me almost 5db of gain -- the same as running a 300w amplifier from the top of the mountain, with the added advantage of improved receive!  

Another useful feature -- 5db of antenna gain will make a 30w signal sound like 100w (or if QRP, 5w becomes as 15w).  That means I can run my portable rig on far less power, enjoy longer operation, and still complete the same QSO's as before... not to mention hearing (and contacting) others I was deaf to on a dipole.
Oops.. left some tape on the gap piece

The Moxon is a really great antenna design.  Its overall size is around 30% less than a full-sized beam.  Depending on your choice, you may prefer this reduction in size, when you're working with an antenna as large as 20m band antenna are.  A full-sized 20m 2-element beam is over 10m (32 feet) long, and  2.3m (7.54 feet) wide!  The sad reality is, once you get larger than 15m, building a portable beam becomes a bit of a challenge.  In any case -- please note that you may find constructing a basic 2-element 20m antenna even easier, depending on what's available to you.  Both ideas are great!

Another advantage of the Moxon is its wide bandwidth.  This means, if you build it right, you will be close enough to work both 15m and 17m bands with the same antenna, provided you have a tuner.  The SWR of those bands will vary on things such as wire size you use, but this antenna ends up 2.3 to 1 on 17m band, and about 3.4 to 1 on 15m.  Even though there are losses experienced (and especially on 15m) at these higher SWR numbers, K5LJ showed that there is gain to be experienced with the 20m Moxon, even when working off-frequency: See "Gain Antennas:  The 80% Solution" Part 1.  Part 2. I'm not using window line, so my gain will be down a bit, but I'll still enjoy a few db gain over a dipole, on both 15m and 17m.

The Moxon is recognized for about 10db higher front-to-back ratio, but is down about 1/2 to 1 db gain from a full-sized 20m beam (very small).  In truth, I find that the difference in front-to-back is maybe not as much as touted.  I have tried a few different 20m designs, and failed, because the parts I have available to me (or can find, I should say) are different than if I were at a Lowe's or Home Depot in the USA.  I have to hunt around the city to find what I need.  Also, I learned a lot about what wire size is going to work, as well as how much weight my cheap 5.2m (17 ft) crappie poles will take.  

I'm going to list the parts, and tell you a little about what I did.  Your part sizes may differ (metric vs. standard inches), but I have found that a little roll-around, or two, of electrical tape can fill in gaps between tubes.  Here's what I ended up using -- you may need to modify, based on parts available. My parts were in metric, so you'll have to check over your parts to see if they'll fit with the aluminum legs you slide in (you might need to adjust the design to do so):

1.  12m (21 foot) Spiderbeam HD mast.  One of the few semi-light masts stout enough.  A Sota pole or fiberglass flag mast will be too weak.
2.  One 3/4"  (20cm) PVC T
3.  One 3/4" (20cm) PVC Quad angle
4.  One 3/4" PVC pipe (cut into smaller 6cm or 2 1/2" long pieces, approximately)
5.  Two pieces of  36cm long, 20mm diameter aluminum element material.  Size must fit snugly, but freely inside of the 3/4" (20mm) PVC pipe.

6.  One longer piece of the same aluminum, but make it about 2 1/2 feet (75cm) long.
7.  A roll of black electrical tape
8.  PVC Glue
9.  Some screws/nuts to hold the pipes and the PVC parts.
10.  About 22m of 16awg or 18awg wire (extra added, for safety scrap).  I was able to find some 16awg with a thin plastic shield.  I recommend this.  If not, you can get 18awg, but the thinner wire adds another .2 to .5db signal loss, and will lower bandwidth a smidge.
11.  The free MOXGEN antenna program
12.  A small/light 100w 1:1 balun (I got a cheap one -- emphasis on cheap -- from Aliexpress for $12), or just a feedpoint connector and make your own ugly choke on the coax, near the antenna top.
13.  A light plastic scrap long enough to measure and drill holes for the critical "end gap" where the elements nearly touch.
14.  Four crappie poles of about 4.8 to 5m length NOT INCLUDING the thinnest throw-away segment.

You'll note that the 4-way PVC has a hole in the bottom, where the mast fits in.  You can also replace the 3-way PVC "T" with another 4-way, and cut the top aluminum piece into two 36cm pieces.  This will allow you to slide your mast all of the way through the top (I would have done this, but was limited to parts on-hand).  

The "X" you create must be at a 40 degree / 140 degree angle.  That will give you the proper spread for the poles.  I haven't done so yet, but I plan to drill holes and add long screws to lock the "X" together.  I will also be able to take this apart, to save storage space in transport.  I haven't completed that yet, so I just have it taped 40/140 degrees with electrical tape, to keep it from moving.

The aluminum pieces are the right size to slide the open handle ends of the crappie poles onto. Again, you might have to improvise a bit, based on the size of your poles, the size of the aluminum piece you have, and how it fits into the PVC pipe X section you create.  My crappie poles are 5.2m in length, but I throw out the last piece to be able to extend the moxon.  In the photos above, I didn't use the final two pieces, but I will be putting one back in and using about 1/3 of it to hopefully straighten the sag.  Given that my parts mostly are in metric, and found in Korea, you might have to experiment to find what works for you.


I just use another wrap or two of electrical tape on each attached crappie pole, at this joint, to hold them to their respective PVC joint, when erecting.  I remove this tape and throw it away, when taking the antenna down.  Electrical tape is plenty strong to hold the pole to the PVC piece and over the piece of aluminum.

The wire sizing was done using the Moxgen.exe program, available free online.  If you use 16 AWG wire, with a thin PVC shield, you'll find the frequency ends up a 250 to 750 Hz too low.  You can fold over the ends of elements about 5cm (for starters), and get closer to your target 20m SSB frequency.  If your wire has a thicker plastic plastic shield on the outside, you may find your antenna frequency is even lower.  This is all due to something called, "the velocity factor of the wire."  Wire with PVC plastic on it will seem electrically longer than an equal length wire without it.  The wire doesn't have to make a perfect rectangle.  Just do your best.  It can even sag here and there, such as with this antenna, so long as it's all within reason.
These gap spacings are quite critical.

After calculating the wire sizes, and drilling the EXACT gaps in the pieces of light scrap plastic, you can measure and mark where the attachment points of the antenna wire will be to the ends of the poles.  I measured and drilled holes at the exact spacing given in the Moxgen program, and left myself a bit of slack wire, for adjustment.  I bent the wires into the holes, and taped over the small excess with electrical tape, to hold the wires in.  If you have a few inches/several cm of extra wire, just wrap it back and around the element wire, then tape it tight so that it looks like one wire.  The wire will appear electrically the length of the fold point (approximately).  It's safer than cutting!

After completing the center "X" with the added crappie poles, I begin taping the wire to the far ends of the poles, paying careful attention to where I marked, based on the Moxgen dimensions.  You might find a more elegant solution than electrical-taping the wire to the poles, but hey -- I find it works, and just a few small turns of electrical tape holds it really well.  The center feedpoint is pretty simple, here.  Some build more permanent moxons with a PVC pipe attachment added to anchor the feedpoint.  I find simply taping the coax to the pole, and angling it down to the feed, works fine enough.  I used a cheap Aliexpress 100w balun here -- it's really a weak balun, but works as a feedpoint, if nothing else.  You can do better.

Next, mount the Spiderbeam 12mHD mast to tree trunk, or fence post.  Lift the completed antenna over it, and and raise the correct-sized center pole fit inside (or through, if you built it with two PVC quad joints) the center "X" of the antenna.  You might come up with a more elegant solution, but to keep the antenna from spinning around by itself, I use 5 to 10 turns of electrical tape to hold it to the pole.

Spiderbeam sells some locking clamps for each section, but I find a stout twist and a few turns of electrical tape hold it well enough, in the case of light antennas.  This is also faster.  If you want to raise the antenna more than 5 or 6 meters, or if you have any wind, you will want to guy it.  In fact, I would highly suggest doing so.


I hope this project gives you some ideas.  There are better designs, for sure, but I'm glad that it breaks down small enough to be carried in a backpack.  The "X" can be broken down even further, if I want. Happy antenna building!

Here's a Moxon video I made, detailing how to get started on your own moxon!



Next, I'd like to post an important article that I fear will be lost to time.  I did not write this, and the author has passed.  It includes important information about nesting moxons:

The Elusive Moxon Nest

L. B. Cebik, W4RNL




For the last decade or so, since the Moxon Rectangle emerged as a compact full-size 2-element array of considerable utility, folks have searched for a means of nesting Moxons for more than one band. Despite G6XN's reported successful use of wave traps to isolate elements within a multi-band array, there has been little success in nesting rectangles that have been optimized for maximum gain, maximum front-to-back ratio, and a direct-feed 50-Ohm impedance.
This report will examine some of the reasons why nesting Moxons is difficult. It will also describe a successful design that combines 17 and 12 meter Moxons in a nested pair with a common feedpoint.
Background
Moxon derived his rectangular tri-band array from the VK2ABQ square. Both designs used the coupling of parallel portions of a driver and a reflector element and the element-end coupling from the tails of the elements bent toward each other. The rectangle proved to have a higher gain than the square, while preserving a near cardioidal pattern with a very high front-to-back ratio.
Since the early 1990s, I have refined the design of monoband Moxon rectangles to yield beams with about as much forward gain as a standard 2-element Yagi, but with only about 70% of the side-to-side width. The designs are quite broadband and are compatible with a 50-Ohm feedline. The result is an effective beam for the spatially challenged ham.
However, the further stretching of the rectangle that produced these results presented a new challenge: nesting at least 2 Moxons on the same plane. Moxon "Christmas Trees" that provide vertical separation among antennas have been common, but trying to nest two Moxons proved detrimental to the performance of one or both antennas.
As a sample of such a nest, let's put together fairly standard Moxons and see what happens. The following table lists the dimensions for the two bands, using what has become standard notation. In this and all of the design models for this report, the 17-meter elements average 0.75" in diameter, while the 12-meter elements average about 0.5" in diameter.
A is the total side-to-side dimension. B is the length of the fold-back driver tail. C is the gap between tails. D is the length of the fold-forward reflector tail, and E is the length of the entire array from the driver back to the reflector--the sum of B, C, and D. Because we have nested the Moxons, I have added the dimension DR for the distance between the two drivers and the dimension RE for the distance between the two reflectors. I have also appended as a reference a guide to dimensions (Fig. 15) at the end of this report.
At my web site (../moxon/moxpage.html), there is a ready-to-use calculator for entering the design frequency and the proposed element diameter to arrive at monoband Moxon dimensions. As well, a number of stand-alone programs and equation-based models also exist for this purpose.
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     Independently Fed Nested Moxon Rectangles for 17 and 12 Meters

All dimensions in feet

Dimension             18.118 MHz            24.94 MHz
      A               19.46                 15.08
      B                2.74                  1.99
      C                0.63                  0.46
      D                3.68                  2.13
      E                7.05                  4.58
      DR                         1.15
      RE                         1.32
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Free-space E-plane or azimuth plots of the band-center performance of each array may give the illusion that we have a successful nesting. See Fig. 1.

The patterns give the impression that we have an operable array with only a modest reduction in front-to-back ratio on the upper band. However, seeing the same data in tabular form, supplemented by feedpoint information, may give another impression altogether.
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     Independently Fed Nested Moxon Rectangles for 17 and 12 Meters
                        Modeled Performance Data

Category                    18.118 MHz            24.94 MHz
Free Space Gain (dBi)       6.02                  5.88
180-Deg Front-Back (dB)     29.50                 17.75
Feedpoint Z (R+/-jX Ohms)   62.9 + j 2.7          6.8 - j 0.6
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Although the performance promise is high, feeding the 12-meter rectangle poses a totally unsatisfactory problem. Let's see why.

As shown in Fig. 2, the relative current magnitude distribution on 17 meters is virtually normal. Although there is measurable current on the 12-meter driver, it is sufficiently low that one can arrive at a 50-Ohm 17-meter feedpoint impedance by very small element adjustments that do not disrupt performance.
However, on 12 meters, the situation is quite different. From its interior position, the 12-meter rectangle excites the 17-meter elements--both fore and aft--to very significant levels. The current levels are high enough to prevent the array from achieving anything close to a 50-Ohm feed impedance until the performance pattern is wholly unacceptable. The proximity of the parallel portions of the elements for each band prevents us from effectively isolating them on the upper band.
An Intermediate Design
The is a technique for ameliorating some of the effects of the close proximity of the Moxon elements. Fig. 3 shows the method in the form of an outline sketch.

In the sketch, we have the same two rectangles, with only slight modifications to the dimensions, as shown in the following table.
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        Commonly Fed Nested Moxon Rectangles for 17 and 12 Meters

All dimensions in feet

Dimension             18.118 MHz            24.94 MHz
      A               19.46                 15.08
      B                2.74                  1.97
      C                0.63                  0.38
      D                3.68                  2.22
      E                7.05                  4.57
      DR                         1.15
      RE                         1.32
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
We have adjusted the tails and the gap of the 12-meter antenna to suit the new feed conditions. As shown in the outline sketch, we use a common feedpoint on the 12-meter driven element. Between that point and the 17-meter feedpoint, we run a length (1.15') of 70-Ohm, 0.8 VF transmission line. The impedance and velocity factor values reflect foam versions of either RG-11 or RG-59.
The phase line must be "normal," that is, the center conductor and the braid attach to the left or right sides, as applicable, of the drivers for both bands. Reversing the line at only one end disrupts its ameliorative action.
Interestingly, the use of the common feedpoint and phase line does not significantly alter the current magnitude distribution on the array elements. However, it does make a significant alteration in some of the current phase values, and this change makes all the difference. The following table shows the modeled relative current magnitude and phase at the element centers for the independently fed and common-feed arrays.
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    Current Magnitude and Phase At Element Centers for a Moxon Array

All values at 24.94 MHz

Element                          Ind. Feed             Common Feed
12-M Driver                      1.00/0.0 deg          1.00/-8.7 deg
12-M Reflector                   0.80/152              0.86/119
17-M Driver                      0.44/177              0.44/173
17-M Reflector                   0.21/-81              0.20/-40

 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

There is not much difference in the relative driver current magnitudes or phase angles. However, the reflector phase angles have changed significantly. This change is reflected in the performance figures for the array, shown in the following table.
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        Commonly Fed Nested Moxon Rectangles for 17 and 12 Meters
                        Modeled Performance Data

Category                    18.118 MHz            24.94 MHz
Free Space Gain (dBi)       6.06                  5.47
180-Deg Front-Back (dB)     27.24                 12.54
Feedpoint Z (R+/-jX Ohms)   52.0 + j10.5          50.7 - j 3.6
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Although we have now obtained satisfactory feedpoint impedances on both bands, we have sacrificed performance. We have lost a half-dB of gain and about 5 dB of front-to-back performance at 12 meters, relative to the independently-fed but unfeedable version of the nested array. However, if these performance losses are not considered severe, then this version of nested Moxons is suitable for building.
To test whether or not these dimensions are excessively finicky, I ran a 400-kHz frequency sweep of the array on both bands.

Fig. 4 shows the gain and the relevant front-to-back ratios (180-degrees and worst-case) on 17 meters. The gain curve is completely normal for a 2-element parasitic array with a driver and reflector. It is also normal relative to monoband Moxon rectangles. The front-to-back ratios peak on the upper band edge but have more shallow curves than most monoband Moxons.

In Fig. 5, we find the corresponding curves for the 12-meter performance. The close coupling of the two array reduces gain and makes its curve sharper than normal Moxon gain curves. The peak is below the lower end of 12 meters but within the sweep passband. Because the front-to-back region shows only a single bulge and is fairly low, the 180-degree front-to-back curve is coincident with the front-to-sidelobe curve that indicates the worst-case front-to-back ratio. As well, the weaker values yield a quite shallow curve across the sweep passband.

The 17-meter (Fig. 6) and the 12-meter (Fig. 7) graphs of the feedpoint resistance and reactance are both very well-behaved--a key benefit of using the common feedpoint and phase line system. The 17-meter 50-Ohm SWR curve never rises above 1.45:1. However, the 12-meter curve is considerably steeper. Nevertheless, since the sweep passband is 4 times the width of the actual 12-meter amateur band, there is considerable leeway for construction variables without jeopardizing the ability to effectively feed the array with a 50-Ohm coaxial cable.

An Alternative Nesting Strategy
To improve the performance of the 2-band array would require a design revision that further separates the parallel portions of the drivers and the reflectors. Most strategies applied to nested Moxons have concentrated on modifying the inner or high-band Moxon, since it shows the greatest departure from monoband performance. However, we might begin to focus on modifying the low-band or outer Moxon instead.
If we maintain a standard design for the Moxon, effecting increased separation between drivers and reflector involves returning the rectangle toward its squared origins. Widening the space between the driver and the reflector of a Moxon rectangle has two major effects. First, it reduces gain. A fully square VK2ABQ array loses about a full dB of gain relative to the Moxon. As well, the feedpoint impedance increases. So this direct of effort will only lose us the gain that we lost in our first successful nest and a little bit more. As well, we shall lose our 50-Ohm impedance match.
Now a side-note to prove that one sort of misunderstanding can lead to a different sort of understanding. I was reviewing the model of a recent OptiBeam commercial antenna which used a Moxon rectangle on 20 meters and a loaded Moxon for 40 meters. The main decoupling devices are stubs past each mid-element load, for which the designers have made patent application. The design also called for wider separation between element tails. (Since a loaded antenna normally results in a reduced feedpoint impedance, the wider gaps were required to raise the impedance back to 50 Ohms.) Between the tails, for mechanical support reasons, they introduced metallic tubes with insulators at each end.
My initial reaction was to interpret the new tubes as element end coupling wires to distribute the capacitive coupling of element ends in a series manner. However, Tom Schmenger, DF2BO, of Optibeam assured me that they were not part of the decoupling system. My secondary reaction was this: the tubes could be part of the decoupling system.
Suppose that we increased the spacing between elements just far enough to minimize the interaction between the drivers and reflectors for the two bands. To assure adequate element end coupling, we would introduce short elements--which we can call end-coupling wires--to sustain the element end coupling. What we would lose is some of the front-to-back ratio, which is dependent upon both the end coupling and the coupling between parallel portions of the elements for a given band. However, what we might gain is more satisfactory performance for the array's gain and for the feedpoint resistance and reactance.
The Modified Moxon Nest for 17 and 12 Meters
We can see the elements of the resulting array in the outlines of Fig. 8. The array is about 4' wider (front-to-rear) than our original nest. Note that we have retained the common feedpoint and the 70-Ohm, 0.8 VF line between the driver feedpoints, and feed the 12-meter element. Again, reversing the phase line harms performance. The line length is now 3.15'.

To provide dimensions (see the appended Fig. 15), we must introduce 2 new dimension terms. We now have gaps C1 (driver-to-coupling wire) and C2 (coupling wire to reflector). Of course, we also must specify the length of CW, the coupling wire itself. The coupling wire is the same diameter as the element tails.
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   Commonly Fed Nested Modified Moxon Rectangles for 17 and 12 Meters

All dimensions in feet

Dimension             18.118 MHz                  24.94 MHz
      A               20.00            A          15.00
      B                2.73            B           1.90
      C1               0.11            C           0.45
      CW               4.57
      C2               0.10
      D                3.54            D           2.22
      E               11.04            E           4.57
      DR                               3.15
      RE                               3.32
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

That the system does isolate the high- and low-band elements becomes apparent from the relative current magnitude curves in Fig. 9. Indeed, the current ib the inactive elements due to coupling to the active elements is nearly equal for operation on both bands.

The general properties of the antenna patterns appear in the free-space E-plane or azimuth patterns for the centers of the two bands. As shown in Fig. 10, the 12-meter curve is completely normal for a monoband Moxon rectangle. However, as we surmised from pre-design analysis, the rear lobe of the 17-meter Moxon is significantly larger than that for the 12-meter rectangle.

Nonetheless, mid-band performance--especially on the less-active 12- and 17-meter bands seems to be quite adequate for a 2-element array. The following table of performance values derived from the models will bear out this conclusion.
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   Commonly Fed Nested Modified Moxon Rectangles for 17 and 12 Meters
                        Modeled Performance Data

Category                    18.118 MHz            24.94 MHz
Free Space Gain (dBi)       5.95                  6.19
180-Deg Front-Back (dB)     14.32                 30.32
Feedpoint Z (R+/-jX Ohms)   69.7 - j 0.9          58.4 + j 1.9
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The 12-meter performance is Moxon-normal. The 17-meter performance has restored virtually all of the rectangle's gain, while its front-to-back ratio is over 2 dB better than the 12-meter value for our initial common-feed nested Moxon pair. The feedpoint impedances are well within acceptable levels.
To test whether the array is buildable or simply too finicky for practical basement construction, let's sweep the array on both frequencies. We shall use the same 400-kHz sweep range that we applied to the initial nested pair.

Fig. 11 gives us the gain and front-to-back information for 17 meters. The gain curve is once more normal for a parasitic 2-element driver-reflector array. The 180-degree and worst-case front-to-back curves coincide in a very shallow and stable value set that reflects the wider element spacing. We might classify these curves as "well-behaved."

The corresponding 12-meter curves in Fig. 12 are equally well-behaved, although the front-to-back curves are more Moxon-esque, with a peak just below the lower end of the amateur 12-meter band. Even the worst-case curve is greater than 20 dB at both sweep passband edges. The gain curve is also completely normal.

Since the 50-Ohm SWR curve for 17 meters is shallow, as shown in Fig. 13, I thought it unnecessary to further modify the outer array to seek a perfect 1:1 value within the amateur band. Some slight tweaking may be possible, but it will involve juggling not only a driven element overall length, but as well, the length of the coupling wire. It is likely that under any modification, the very small gaps at each end of this wire will remain fairly constant at around 0.1' (between 1.2" and 1.4"). Nonetheless, the rates of change for both the resistance and reactance are quite tame.

The SWR curve for 12 meters, shown in Fig. 14, is a bit steeper, although it bottoms out just below the low end of the amateur band. The chief source of the steeper--but entirely acceptable--curve is the rate of change of resistance. This higher rate of change is a function of the closer spacing between the driver and reflector on this band.
I am placing the dimensional guide to the main variations on nested Moxon arrays (Fig. 15) at this point, since it functions more as a reference than as array information.

A Third Alternative: 1/8-Wavelength Stubs
There is a third alternative for a nested pair of Moxon rectangles--using our designated 17-meter and 12-meter pair. This alternative employs 1/8-wavelength stubs somewhat after the fashion of the OptiBeam 40-meter-20-meter combination. However, unlike the Optibeam 40-meter antenna, our 17-meter Moxon is not loaded. As a result, we can place the stubs close to the feedpoint of the antenna, as shown in the tilted-image sketch in Fig. 16.

Ideally, the stubs should be as close as feasible to the feedpoint. However, to ensure that the feedpoint of the driver has equal length segments on either side of the source segment, the stubs begin about 0.7' each side of element center. As well the 17-meter feedpoint is an indirect one, being the termination of a 70-Ohm, 0.8-velocity factor line from the combined feedpoint on the 12-meter driver. The line length in this case is 1.23'. The following table provides complete dimensions for the new nested array, including the distances between drivers and reflectors and the stub lengh.
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   Commonly Fed Nested/Stubbed Moxon Rectangles for 17 and 12 Meters

All dimensions in feet

Dimension             18.118 MHz            24.94 MHz
      A               19.46                 15.22
      B                2.54                  1.91
      C                0.80                  0.50
      D                3.70                  2.13
      E                7.04                  4.54
      DR                         1.23
      RE                         1.27
      Each Stub                  4.93
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

The stubs are almost exactly 1/8-wavelength long at 24.94 MHz. The initial model used 0.1" diameter stub elements. However, varying the diameter up to 0.25" yielded virtually no change in the required length for optimal performance on each band. You may also note that this array requires modification of the dimensions used for the stub-less nested Moxon array. The stubs alter the pattern of coupled current magnitude and phasing on the 17-meter elements when the antenna is operated at 24.94 MHz. See Fig. 17. As the 12-meter current magnitude distribution curves show, even stubs do not effect complete isolation from significant coupling. Instead, they tend to render the coupling less troublesome to effective operation.

The net result is reasonably good performance on both bands, although--as shown in the following performance table--the front-to-back ratio at 12 meters does not quite match that on 17 meters. Nonetheless, it is superior to the front-to-back ratio for either of the preceding alternatives when reference to the non-optimal band.
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
   Commonly Fed Nested/Stubbed Moxon Rectangles for 17 and 12 Meters
                        Modeled Performance Data

Category                    18.118 MHz            24.94 MHz
Free Space Gain (dBi)       6.19 (6.05)           5.84 (5.95)
180-Deg Front-Back (dB)     34.62                 17.95
Feedpoint Z (R+/-jX Ohms)   43.3 - j 2.1          36.6 + j10.1
 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
The values of maximum forward free-space gain in parentheses are adjusted figures based upon the AGT value for the model at each design frequency. Despite the use of a stub element that differs in diameter from the main elements, the NEC-4 AGT at 18.118 MHz was 1.034 (gain high by 0.14 dB) and at 24.94 was 0.974 (gain low by 0.11 dB).

Fig. 18 provides us with free-space E-plane or azimuth patterns for the array at each design frequency. In all of the non-optimal azimuth patterns, one may notice that with lowered front-to-back values, the beamwidth and overall cardioidal pattern shape diminished relative to the pattern under optimal Moxon conditions. As we did for the other major nests of 17-meter and 12-meter Moxons, we ran a frequency sweep of 400 kHz, with the relevant amateur band roughly centered in the sweep.

The 17-meter gain and front-to-back data are in every way normal for a Moxon rectangle, despite the presence of the stubs, as shown if Fig. 19. The rates of change of gain and of both the 180-degree and the worst-case front-to-back ratios are comparable to those of a monoband version. However, it is easier to center the peak front-to-back ratio and the SWR at the same frequency in a monoband version of the antenna.

The comparable gain and front-to-back data for the 12-meter elements, as they appear in Fig. 20, show reductions in bandwidth, despite the shallower front-to-back curves which overlie each other. The highest gain occurs very close to the lower edge of the sweep passband and peaks well below the value of a typical monoband rectangle or of a rectangle with better isolation between the lower- and higher-frequency elements.

The resistance, reactance, and 50-Ohm SWR curves in Fig. 21 show that the close coupling of elements--despite the isolation effected by the stubs--still presents a fairly steep SWR curve on 17 meters, although the value remains below 2:1 across the swept passband. The culprit is the resistance, which does not reach 50 Ohms at the design frequency. Nonetheless, a good SWR value within the 17-meter band is easily obtained.

On 12 meters, as shown in Fig. 22, the situation differs, but in a manner parallel to the gain values in Fig. 20. Like the rapidly changing gain, the resistance changes value more rapidly with frequency than for a monoband 12-meter Moxon. As well, it also does not rise to 50 Ohms until well-above the 12-meter amateur band. Hence, the 50-Ohm SWR curve is quite steep below the design frequency. Under these conditions, the 12-meter portion of the array has a narrower operating passband than does the 17-meter portion.
The stubbed and nested pair of Moxon rectangles offers a more compact arrangement than the modified array, but remains under the influence of mutual element coupling based on element proximity. However, it offers better 12-meter performance than the un-stubbed version of the compact arrangement. The trade-off is a somewhat narrower operating range.
Conclusion
Any of the variations on the nested Moxon pair is likely to serve quite well on 17 and 12 meters for the space-starved modern amateur. The modified outer Moxon version has slightly better performance figures than the unstubbed common-feed array but not as good as the stubbed array. The cost to the modified design is two lengths of tubing and 4' of front-to-rear width. The stubbed array, however, has a narrower operating bandwidth, which translates into somewhat more finicky construction and adjustment than the other two versions. In all three cases, the common feed with a phase line is not merely a convenience. It is a necessity to drive the arrays to their performance potential.
Translating these designs to available materials will likely require considerable design effort and a reliable modeling program. NEC-2 does not provide accurate results if one uses several diameters of tubing for the elements, since the corner bends will prevent the Leeson correctives from activating in either EZNEC or NEC-Win Plus. These correctives only activate with symmetrical linear elements. Perhaps the most effective work-around is to re-design the array using the average value of diameter with uniform-diameter modeling elements. The results will be accurate for that diameter, but not exact for the actual tubing sizes used. Nonetheless, our analyses suggest that the design is not so finicky as to prevent fully adequate performance. Perhaps--as in all Moxons--the most critical dimension is the gap (or the gaps).
I would also not recommend nesting Moxons in any of these systems for adjacent bands, such as 12 and 10 or 15 and 17 meters. The drivers and the reflectors for each band are that much closer together, with stronger interactions. However, skipping a band makes a 20-15 or a 15-10 version of the array entirely within the realm of practical feasibility.
We have not seen the last word on nesting Moxon rectangles. The techniques used in these designs simply contravene my earlier experience in which the nesting problem seemed insurmountable. However, I always expressed my frustration in terms of not "yet" finding a way to effectively nest Moxons. I now have three ways to do that, even if none of them is absolutely optimal. But, then, the future offers plenty of time to more closely approach the ideal of nested Moxons such that each rectangle in the nest performs like a monoband version.

Wednesday, August 2, 2017

Good Antennas Aren't Always Straight: Dipoles and Ladder Line Doublets


New hams are often concerned about how their dipole will look, when it's put up.  They've usually read enough about what happens to patterns to understand that putting the legs in different positions will affect how the antennas perform.  This is all very true.  For example, you may know that an inverted-V dipole will have a somewhat omni-directional pattern, whereas a dipole with level legs, at the proper height, will be direction along the long sides of the wire, and provide a fair amount of signal nulling at the ends.

I want to write about dipoles and doublets in the real world.  In the real world, as opposed to free space, you may not be able to erect a dipole as perfectly as you'd like.  I am lucky enough to live in a building about 5 stories tall, with a flat roof.  In some ways, it's antenna-building nirvana.  In other ways, I have a lot of crap to deal with:  air conditioners on the roof, a large cement walk-up covering the staircase, neighbors who covered about 1/4 of the roof in a garden, lack of building size etc.  This all adds up to me not having a way to fit a full-sized 40m dipole onto my roof.

My solution was to use a doublet with ladder line fed all of the way to the shack, and to not worry so much about shape.  True, my pattern is surely wacky, but I've got an antenna up, and I'm making boatloads of contacts.  Having an antenna is far better than no antenna at all.  There is no point in hemming and hawing over how to put up an antenna perfectly -- just put something up, and start making contacts!  After a few weeks, you'll probably learn that there are some areas you just aren't reaching.  If so, move your antenna around and work areas that you didn't work, before.

Paper Towel Holders as Ladder Line Doublet Stand-offs, Running Along Copper Roof Cap


My point is -- don't worry about making the perfect antenna!  Just make something!  Start learning, ask questions of experts in antenna forums in QRZ or EHam, or on Facebook, and have fun!  If you are using ladder line, and have a balanced input for it, at the tuner -- put up two equal-length wires, feed it to the ladder line, and just tune it!  That's what a doublet is.  I suggest you start out with wires that are at least 33' by 33' (10.06m x 10.06m) in length, to start.  That will allow you to tune basically every band from 40m on up -- SWR won't be workable without an external tuner, and this will be a very lossy antenna, if you use coax, but with ladder line, there is little loss, and it'll work great.  The higher you can get it up, the better.  In fact, this exact antenna is in the graphic, at the top of this page.  I've worked all over the world on it, and had loads of fun.  In fact, it seems to have both vertical DX and horizontal properties, as well as good NVIS performance.

So what is a doublet, compared to a dipole?  A doublet is just a dipole, but as I understand it, the doublet is called a doublet, because of the ladder line feed.  There is no other difference between it and a dipole.  The beauty of the ladder line is that it's extremely low loss.  How low?  As low as some of the most expensive helax cabling you can buy -- the kind you'd spend thousands of dollars installing at your QTH.  In short -- ladder line is a huge bargain.

Here are some great pages to get you started on ladder line antennas:















The problem of working with ladder line is that it isn't as easy to deal with, as coax.  It can flop in the wind.  It needs to be kept at least 12-16 inches away from metal (it can cross metal, for a few inches, with no real problem).  It can change a bit in SWR, when it gets wet (no big issue).   You can also accidentally end up with a resonant length, and find it unable to tune a certain band (to fix, just lengthen it or shorten by 3 or 4 feet, either way).

New hams -- don't worry about making the perfect dipole, or doublet.  Just make sure the legs are an equal length.  If you are building a doublet, then the 4:1 balun in your tuner is good enough to start (but you may find a 1:1 Current balun works better, depending on length, if you plan to add a balun outside the window to a VERY SHORT feed of LMR400 coax, to get inside).  I found a 1:1 Current Balun from Balundesigns is what you want for a high-power G5RV.  If going with a 33' x 33' doublet, you'll want a 4:1 balun, if you decide to place it outside the window, and feed a few feet of coax into the shack.  The length of the wire legs will be the main thing that dictates the impedance.  I used an antenna analyzer to determine which balun was best for my antenna.  To make it easy, for starters -- just use the internal 4:1 balun in your MFJ tuner, if that's what you have.

I just feed the ladder line straight into the house, and to the tuner!  My window happened to have gaps cut for water to seep out of the inside.  You might find you need a feed-through panel, like the MFJ-4602.

If you want a cheaper balun (emphasis on cheap) you can buy them from E-bay or Aliexpress.  I suggest ponying-up for the better baluns from Balundesigns.  They hold their value, and really do work.  You'll have it for years.

If you are making a dipole, just add a 1:1 current balun as your center (not required, but it can help reduce common mode noise, can improve pattern, and provides a nice center feedpoint).  If you are building an off-center fed dipole, you'll want a voltage balun, which will allow common mode current to pass into the coax hanging down (you'll then need to choke the common mode off further down the line, per instructions).  I haven't tried and OCF dipole, so read-up elsewhere.

Get an antenna up -- follow basic design principles, tune properly, and just operate!  Learn what can be improved, and go from there.



Good sources for ladder line:
Amateur Radio Supplies
KF7P's website
The Wireman
MFJ-18H100

Or, just do what I did, and buy an MFJ-1778 and cut off the coax feed.  Good price, plenty of line, and already soldered at the center!  You can trim the wires equally, if needed.


Why a 2-Element Yagi?

2-element 20m Moxon homebrew costing $70 to make, including mast.

Like many new hams, I spent a lot of time reading about antennas, trying to decide what would work best for me.  I came across designs such as monoband dipoles, 1/4 wave verticals, fan dipoles, off-center fed dipoles, end-feds and of course, the G5RV.  I probably spent hours reading about antenna makers extolling the virtues of their product, and studied Youtube videos intently as they operated from back yards and beaches. I asked for opinions in ham radio forums, and got a variety of mostly good answers. I loved it all.

Eventually, I settled on an MFJ G5RV with ladder line.  I chopped-off the coax connector, trimmed the legs to 33' each (a better fit for my roof) and extended my own ladder line all of the way to the tuner.  I had read about how ladder line is extremely low loss, and that I could tune most bands with a simple tuner with a balanced input. It proved to be an excellent choice, and I barely lose 1 watt, while even expensive LMR 400 coax can lose far more.  If you don't mind working with ladder line, and can keep it at least 12 to 16 inches away from metal, you're good.  You can cross metal (such as between metal bars) so long as you are about 3 to 4 inches away... just don't run along metal and be closer than 12 to 16 inches, or your SWR will go wacky due to decoupling.  You also need to be careful you aren't at a resonant length.  Basically, I don't worry about it -- I found myself at a resonant length, once (SWR went bad on a band) so I just lengthened the ladder line by soldering a 4 foot piece on, to extend the length, and I was good.  

Later, I experimented with vertical dipoles, and became so impressed that I wanted more.  The vertical dipole taught me about the importance of pattern and take-off angle.  I was impressed by how much better the 20m vertical dipole was at transmitting, compared to my cut-down G5RV  The vertical dipole was great, although the receive was a lot noisier in my city locale, due to its vertical polarization.  I found myself transmitting on the vertical dipole, then switching to the doublet for receive.

But I wanted more.  I wanted a yagi.

The idea of owning a yagi was a distant dream.  I soon learned that the prices of towers, rotators, not to mention the antenna, could be quite high.  No problem, I thought.  I would just build my own.  Immediately, I made a mistake that I think many hams make -- I went straight to digging-up 3-Element yagi designs, and planning my own build.  It was too long before I became overwhelmed by concepts such as gamma matching, what diameters of tubing I would need, and how I would be attaching these things to the boom.  The more I looked, the more complicated it became, and there seemed to be a precious few finished designs available online, which were not pretty massive.  Pricing parts soon taught me that it would be cheaper to just buy a proven design, than build one which may not work.

More frustration.

Now, let's back up a bit. I mentioned that I made a mistake in going right for a 3-element yagi design.  How could that be a mistake?  In truth, it's not so much of a mistake.  It's more like trying to jog before I learned how to walk. Why?  Because in going for the 3-element yagi, you skip right over the design the ARRL calls, "the best bang-for-the-buck antenna" around:  The 2-element yagi.
The 2-element yagi is, in the eyes of many hams, completely underrated.  Like Rodney Dangerfield, it gets no respect.  Many amateurs have no idea just how good a 2-element yagi is.  In fact, it's a lot like a college sports team in a really difficult conference, where they come close to winning most of their games, but lose nearly all of them by just a few baskets, in the final seconds.  Their losing record is nowhere near an indication of how good they are.  That's the 2-element yagi.  It's actually close -- very close -- in performance to a 3-element trapped yagi, and only about 25% less powerful than a full-sized 3-element.  And here's the kicker:  even the novice antenna builder can make one.  If you can build a dipole, and know how to cut and glue some PVC, you can build your own 2-Element yagi. And provided you don't have picky neighbors to worry about, you can put one up on a mast for less than $200, including the mast!

My 2-element yagis have been cheaper.  They are made of wire, and fiberglass crappie poles. They cost less to make than the cost of a quality balun. They aren't built to last, but I haven't cared, because I keep upgrading every year.  Even still, I've had loads of fun with them.  I've run pileups from Korea, to Europe, when I couldn't even receive the signals on my doublet or dipoles.  I've picked-out difficult remote DX when friends with dipoles and noisy verticals couldn't find it.  I've had DX ask me, out of much curiosity, "Hey, what are you using for an antenna?"  People have assumed it's a 3-element yagi, sometimes, but it's not.


I do have a point of reference for how much of an improvement a 2-element yagi is.  Watch the above video to see one example.  Of course, tests like this are very subjective, depending on signal, the band, and other factors.  It give you a basic idea of how much better a 2-element yagi can be, compared to a dipole.

One of the first things you learn, when building yagis, is that boom length is what determines gain -- it's not the number of elements.  I highly encourage you to download the free (and wonderful) program called MMANA-GAL Basic.  It's a Yagi design program that has some basic templates already installed.  I have had oodles of fun with their 2-element 20m yagi template.  You can change the frequency parameters for other bands, and have it optimize and recalculate lengths to match.  You can tell the program to figure for different criteria, such as better SWR, or more gain, or better front-to-back.  It's a lot of fun.  If you get confused, I recommend asking about your problem in the QRZ "Antennas, Feedlines, Towers & Rotors" forum.  

In a future posting, I'll add a simple 2-element wire yagi design, with approximate dimensions.  I'll be sure to add a link to that post, here, once it's finished.  In the meantime, never discount building your own 2-element yagi (or buy a 2-element monobander, such as a moxon -- they're not so expensive).  You'll have a blast.

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

Yaesu FT-891 Review UPDATE: Sleeper of a Deal







Please note -- this is the UPDATED review. It may seem similar to an earlier review, which other blogs copied and posted, but this contains my longer-term experiences... (most recently updated May 2018):



You can think of the Yaesu FT-891 as the younger, and somewhat ditzy sister radio to the elder FT-857.  They differ in several ways, however -- most notably, the 891 lacks VHF/UHF.  Compared to the 857, the 891 is a cheap date that talks dirty.  The 891 can be a lot of fun, because she puts out.  She is less refined in some ways, but outperforms in others.  Her face smiles much wider than the aging 857, but the 891 missing a dedicated SWR meter, and selectable battery power readout is like missing front teeth.  Like the 857 you will need to push more buttons than other radios to get what you want, but once you do, she will surprise you.  Typical modern Yaesu genetics.

Depending on your needs, and budget, you may like the 891. Or, you may not.  Ultimately, I believe many hams will take her out, have some fun, and dump her for a long-term relationship with a more refined model. 

The 891's purposed role is in a vehicle. If you want a desktop rig, you can use it that way, but you might consider the Yaesu 450D a better all-around choice for marriage, and raising QSO's in your shack.  It just depends on your needs.  

For mountain portable ops, the 891 can work well enough, but if you aren't hiking a long distance, a 450D includes a tuner and a much better speaker.  Running headphones helps a lot, but my 891 needs coms headphones made for ham, which cut the highs -- regular audio headphones produce a high hiss that annoys. 

Quick look at Pros:


1. Price! Only Alinco rigs are less expensive, so best portable bang-for-the-buck out there.

2. 32-bit DSP found in FTDX series aids average RX stats to dig out signals better than rigs costing much more.

3. Slightly smaller than even the FT-857

4. Excellent power output, and strong cooling (see cons)

5. Menu items include wide Hz range Low/High cut RX bandwidth filter, like more expensive radios

6. Large display

7. Simple Panadapter (radio silent when scanning)

8. Five memories to save/play your CQ calls.

9. Works with ATAS system, and shares some attachments with FT-857

10. Yaesu misprinted the RX amp draw as 2a. It's only 1a draw.

11. Buttons are lit.

12.  THREE year Yaesu warranty!


Quick look at Cons:



1. Hissing sound makes rear mono audio port useless for headphones (front stereo port is better, but still present).

2. If using non-communications dedicated speaker or headphones, HISS in RX audio can be heard, if RF gain at full, and volume raised above 1/2. Assume you will need proper communications headphones, or expect some HISS. This noise is not heard through on-board speaker.  Remedy is to use a resistor to block the hiss, or specialized communications headphones.  I have found my Motorola HSN4038A external speaker also removes the HISS.  You can live with it, using normal headphones, but it is there.

3. Phase noise may bother others
 -- see ARRL test report and radioaficion link at bottom.  Close to your rig (field day) it can be an issue for others.  I experienced this.  Not a rig to bring to field day.

4. Voltage only viewable briefly at start-up.

5. Menus take some getting used to, but are better than FT-857

6. Audio is a bit blah through external speaker, but better than onboard audio.  * UPDATE: Speaker sounds greatly improved if you place something like a tuner on top of the FT-891.  Perhaps Yaesu designed it this way, on purpose -- as in how it would sound in a car.  Try it!

7. Fan noise gets loud in a 100w rag chew, but stays low enough at 50w output.

8. Not a "shack-in-the-box," because it lacks VHF/UHF.

9. No internal tuner, and Yaesu matching tuner is both expensive, and only matches 3.0 to 1. (Get LDG brand)

10. ALC can get a little wild, if set to average much above half.

11. Some user settings, like signal bandwidth, return to default, when switching between bands.

12. Bug info update, per Facebook 891 forum:  "...many people have experienced the clicking [beeping?] when using CAT and a USB cable. It seems to be related to the Monitor function. You ALMOST eliminate the clicking by going to MON in the quick menu, and reducing the MON volume to zero. The clicking happens even if MON is not enabled. So, reduce the MON level even if you don't enable the Monitor function.  Newer radios may not suffer from this issue.  Mine does, but not as bad as another documented issue.  My take:  Avoid this rig for digital work.

* May 2018 caveat:  There is talk that some people buying the latest FT-891 are not experiencing the clicking.  There was also another report I read that Yaesu repaired and replaced multiple internals on one ops radio, to resolve the clicking issue.  It is possible that Yaesu has finally acknowledged this issue, and is making things right.  The FT-891 has a 3-year warranty, so give it a try, if you suffer from this issue, and care.

13.  USB port does not handle digital modes, but there is a work-around (see below)

14.  My rig maxes at 90-92w output.  See Radioaficion engineers link at end of this article, about that.


This review will cover every negative of the FT-891 I have noticed, but keep in mind that I feel it's a decent value, and the most performance you're going to find at this price-point. Some will want to tear this radio apart, because it's not the second coming of the FT-857, or because some test lab stats aren't absolute perfection, but in my experience, this radio is cheap way to get some decent performance.

Digital mode operators will want to avoid this rig, due to a clicking issue through CAT control, which I have also verified (see Youtube) and CW operators will want to seek more information elsewhere, as I am almost entirely an HF SSB guy. I will add that I have read this radio is not the best choice for digital modes, so you may want to research it.  Please note the caveat to #12 con, above.   Otherwise, I hope this exhaustive commentary proves useful.  I must add that I have also heard that using a Signalink keeps this clicking noise from happening.  I cannot verify if this is true, but you may want to see if there is any news on this front.

Now, for more on the radio... I'm running under the assumption that Yaesu is just not selling a lot of FT-891's. That is the only reason I can see for the price being so low. At the moment, you can get them for about $630-$680, shipped. That's in the same ballpark as their famous, yet older FT-450D, but the new FT-891 comes with extensive 32-bit digital noise reduction technology improvements found in their higher-end radios. True, the FT-891 has no internal tuner, while the FT-450D does, but with a resonant antenna or a strong external auto-tuner (which many supplement the 450D with, to run a wide-band antenna, anyway), the FT-891 is the more versatile rig. There are lots of little adds in the FT-891, including five record slots to save your CQ audio, so you can call CQ, or say whatever you like, with the press of a button.


Improvements in DSP over the FT-450D are huge. The noise reduction actually works very well, with less tweaking. It is a welcome change. Some may complain that Yaesu's implementation of DNR is a bit watery-sounding, but I find a little DSP SFT (shift), and proper RF/AF gain removes most of the bubbling. I like it.


Better on Rx than ICOM 7300?



I will say this without any bias -- I am shocked that the Yaesu DSP is easier to use, and in my opinion, better than that of my highly-touted Icom 7300. I own one, and am not alone in this.

Before purchase, I watched a video on YouTube, where Jerry Koch said he could pull out signals better with the FT-891, compared to the IC-7300. I rolled my eyes. I am an owner of the ICOM 7300, and ALC aggression issues aside, I love my 7300 for it's ability to pull out signals. I figured Jerry had lost it. I wanted to tell him off. How dare he? There is a $600 difference between these two radios, and the 7300 is the SDR radio that redefined the industry. I nearly posted a nasty comment, in the name of Sherwood, demanding he apologize for such a travesty!

Full stop.

I had viewed Jerry's video before I purchased the FT-891. Once I had the new Yaesu in the shack, I was able to experience the same. I was in a rag chew, and increasingly unable to copy a weak SSB signal fully on my 7300. I reached a point where no amount of Twin PBT, RX bandwidth filter adjustments, attenuation, and EQ'ing could produce better than 50% copy. Remembering Jerry's claim, I switched the antenna over to the FT-891, added a DSP level of 1, a little RF gain, and a slight shift, and -- boom. I understood the other op 100%. Dumbfounded, I switched back and forth between the two radios, and found the FT-891 was consistently better, given my noisy city environment. Although the 7300 tests as the more sensitive rig, it falls flat when overwhelmed by noise.


At my city noise levels, I find myself preferring the FT-891's noise reduction capabilities over the darling 7300, because whatever algorithm Yaesu uses is just far better. A tiny bit of DNR, and a bit of shifting, goes a long way. No to mention, the FT-891 includes a 3k roofing filter, which helps a great deal, in noisy environments. Does this make me want to stop using the 7300 at home, and enjoy the 891, instead?  I tried that for a week, and went back to the 7300 due to overall better sound, but for what it is, the 891 does a very good job.  What this experience did teach me is that I might dump the 7300 for a higher-end Yaesu rig, like the FTDX3000, or something else Yaesu, next year.

Will the FT-891 best the 7300, in all situations? No. The two radios are not in the same class, and I am only comparing them because I own both. On receive the two rigs are pretty similar, in 95% of situations, with the all-around sound quality edge handily going to the 7300. The FT-891 sounds kind of flat and lifeless. They both pull out the same signal, but the 7300 does sound better doing it, through either on-board, or 3rd-party speaker. That is to be expected, given that the FT-891 is only the size of a thick book. The FT-891, however, hits that sound range where the receive audio is most important to copy the signal. Great, for what it is. The 7300 has some deep-menu items (receive filtering and EQ) that give it an edge, at times (and others not), but this takes a lot of signal-dependent tweaking, and timely adjusting, to get there. Again, these are very different radios, but remember the price -- the FT-891 costs HALF!

A test with an on-air friend confirmed -- even though they are the same wattage, and the ICOM has a much better quality sound from its microphone, the FT-891 has what he described as, "more punch." That can be useful. I tested various levels of compression and mic gain, on both rigs. In short, the 7300 will almost always get "clean audio" reports, because ICOM forces aggressive ALC on you, but the FT-891 is capable of decent audio also, and a louder perceived signal, if you adjust it right. But, there are trade-offs. Don't be naughty. Follow proper adjustment procedures (you can mess your transmit audio up, if you don't follow the manual).


I added a Behringer xm8500 mic, and a homebrew patch cable, and my audio showed dramatic improvement -- but I eventually figured out good enough settings for the hand mic that I do not bother (see my other settings article on this blog). Please pay attention to the ALC, however. Keep it peaking at midpoint. Set it too high, and your signal will appear louder on the meter, but you might splatter.


I have purchased an E-bay seller W7YEN's amp cable for my FT-891 to connect to my Tokyo Hy-Power HL-1.2KFX, and was thrilled to find that it pushes the amp better than my ICOM 7300, also. Why? The 7300 is so strict with the ALC, that even at full 95 watts drive for the amp, the peaks are lower than with the Yaesu. The FT-891 pushes the amp to the max, at 85w drive, if I so desire. I have read that it is best to run an amp that works with 50w drive, because the FT-891 gets a little dirty on transmit. I amped mine to 700w+, and a JA OP nearby (I am 750 miles away, in Seoul) said my IMD distortion was about average, driving my Tokyo Hy-Power 1.2kfx amp excited by the FT-891, at 85w.  Any higher, and he saw IMD grow.  I can drive the amp just fine with 85w, anyway.  I religiously keep the ALC at half, or below.  A closer measurement would be an interesting comparison, but I plan this to be a portable rig, so I will rarely be amped.

I am getting better signal reports from people, after tweaking the stock MH-31 mic of the FT-891. I had to enter the menus and roll off the lows down below 300hz, and add a fair bit of emphasis to the mids and highs. I also find setting 1 on the back switch of the MH-31 mic is good for local rag chew, and setting 2 is better for distant DX.


The Backlash: Not an FT-857 Replacement



When the FT-891 came out, people expected it would be the replacement of the FT-857. It's not. The FT-891 has no UHF/VHF (a source of much disappointment, for those who want one radio to do everything). in addition, the FT-891 was found to lack important features expected of mobile, and SOTA-style rigs. Specifically, there is no read-out displaying voltage, other than briefly, at power-up. From that point, IDD amp current drain on the final stage transistors can be accessed via menu, but if there is another way to view voltage or overall current draw in amps, I haven't found it. Portable operators will want an external meter, and will find themselves dreaming that they could have been a fly on the wall when a table full of engineers in Japan decided these omissions would be acceptable. I can only surmise that not adding a real-time voltage display was on purpose. Perhaps they didn't want to take a bite out of more pricey FT-857 sales, or make the FT-817 look less appealing, in the downward sun cycle? I have no idea. If running from a desktop, you won't care, and you can always turn the rig on/off, if you need to see current voltage. It's an odd work-around.


Next, comes a very odd misnomer. The FT-891 is listed as eating 2 amps on receive, in Yaesu specifications. This scared away portable buyers, and was the source of many negative posts by hams who were waiting for an updated FT-857, yet had never actually tried the new radio. I have no idea why Yaesu claims this high number on receive, because they are incorrect (scroll to the bottom of this article, or search Youtube, for actual tested current draw numbers). The FT-891 listens comfortably at 1 amp.

Like it's predecessor it's not very efficient, if you want to transmit. The FT-891 can transmit at 5w, but as you'll see from statistics, you may as well be transmitting at 10w, or 15w, because you're really not saving much by running QRP.

Getting off track here -- I recently purchased an incredible Lifepo4 12.8v, 10Ah battery with massive 20amp current draw, and I'm in portable heaven with this rig. I can transmit at up to full power, with typical SSB RX/TX usage levels, for more than 3 hours -- no problem. I highly recommend dumping the old/heavy gel cell for a 10Ah Lifepo4. Mine is the size of a large coffee mug, and weighs just 1.1kgs (2.4 pounds).


I sold-off my Elecraft KX2 for this rig (and I loved that radio). I'm still happy doing so, because I have a lot more power available. With the downward sun cycle, having extra power on command is not such a bad thing!

Having full QRO power at my disposal while portable means I don't miss much, unless there is a big pileup, and I can use this rig as a back-up desktop machine, should I have the need.  My KX2 could fill those roles somewhat, but at 10w max output, it was a short dog peeing in the tall weeds.


ARRL and High IMD


A more recent source of negative talk about the FT-891 are regarding high IMD in the June 2017 QST test by the ARRL. I have seen online comments about these tests wrongly quoted by operators, who said the ARRL does not recommend the FT-891 as a desktop radio, which is untrue. They had a lot of nice things to say about the FT-891, but here's the worst of it...

To paraphrase, Bob Allison, WB1GCM, mentioned on page 55 of the June 2017 QST review, that the transmit phase is about the highest they've yet seen at the lab. He also said he would be wary of pairing this transceiver with an RF amplifier, and that users of the FT-891 should watch the ALC level when transmitting voice, because transmit IMD levels tend to get high if the ALC indicator reaches the top end of the scale. Likewise, keep the ALC level low, in digital modes.

To review, the suggestion by the ARRL was to keep the ALC set midrange, or below, but no higher, to mitigate the problem. I have also noticed that the FT-891 loses its lunch a bit, and transmits somewhat high peaks, when the ALC has to work in its higher range. Seeing that one of the first things an op should do is to properly set the ALC, for best performance, this doesn't bother me. I'm seeing fine results, keeping this in mind, along with lowering the mic gain from the stock setting of 50, to around 30, and the processing/compression level down to about 30.  I have noted ALC changes between bands, and mic may need adjustment on 40m.  I end up needing to raise the mic level for 40m, and lowering a bit for 20m, to stay in the first half of the ALC, with the stock mic.  I added an external Behringer XM8500, with homebrew patch cable, which is much more consistent.

There are additional tests found in the radioaficion link below. It sounds like, if you are wanting to amplify this radio, you may want an amp that makes its power at lower drive, for a cleaner signal. I suspect, however, that most buyers of this radio will not be adding an HF amp.

If small-footprint desktop operation is your interest, this is one cheap deal for a rig. What you're getting is the latest 32-bit DSP technology (found in the FTDX series), packed into a tiny box that outputs nearly 100w. I used to own an FT-950 (the larger brother of the FT-450D), and there is no comparison -- the FT-891 absolutely SMOKES the FT-950, in noise reduction, and probably overall receive in noisy areas, as a result. Online comparisons from owners of the 450D say the FT-891 is far better. In short, this is a DSP that truly works as DSP.

As mentioned, the FT-891 is a nice desktop space-saver. Reports are, than when controlled via its USB output, using updated/paid Ham Radio Deluxe (the free version doesn't work with it), the rig becomes as easy as pie to control. There were early complaints about the FT-891 having USB compatibility issues with certain programs, but this is not uncommon, and problems are often fixed through updates. Check with any 3rd party program providers for latest compatibility if your intent is working digital modes.

It was said in a YouTube video, that the smaller rigs receive some of the trickled-down improvements of the flagships in the same series. No doubt, this is what has happened with the FT-891. It's really like getting an FTDX1200 in a small box, at almost half of the price. It also boasts a much larger screen than the older Yaesu FT-857 (and don't forget, the FT-857 has suffered from screen issues, over time).

A Good Mobile Rig? Possibly.


I mentioned a few of the negatives of the FT-891. Let me mention a few more, and let you decide if it's a problem, given your usage. Like the FT-857, the FT-891 is a menu-heavy rig. It has been mentioned that this would be a difficult rig to use in a vehicle, while driving. If you were on the move, and hoping to adjust things like power level, or anything outside of your top 3 programmable quick-button menu choices, then yes -- it is difficult. The truth is, however, that taking the time to make changes on ANY rig, while driving, is dangerous (and may be illegal, in some states). It's much like texting behind the wheel. There isn't a lot of difference between the FT-891, and FT-857, in this regard. Band changes are done in a bit of a quirky way in the FT-891, but the method has grown on me. I find it not as bad as some have reviewed. Perhaps there was a firmware update improvement, but I don't find it "too fast" to jump to a selection, before you are finished, as some have complained.

From a desktop situation, however, given what you give up to enjoy the tiny footprint, I don't find the menus to be as horrible as some make them out to be. Hunting menus is never fun, but a long-press on the F button will take you back into the same area of the long-form menu, where you left off (essentially giving you a pseudo 4th quick button). The menus hide some very nice additions. For example, you can head to menu items 11-01 to 11-04 and find High and Low cut settings to tailor your receive audio -- nice for DX!  The back to default of menu items like RX bandwidth between band changes is a downer.  It does not keep this setting, which is annoying.


Yaesu's Sad Matching Tuner


Another thing to consider, is the choice of tuners. The FT-891 has NO internal tuner, and Yaesu doesn't give you a good choice for an automatic tuner. The FT-450D does offer a basic antenna matching (tuner) device. The FT-891 is a newer rig, and it will likely take time for companies such as LDG to come out with a dedicated 3rd-party tuner. You CAN use one of LDG's generic-model auto-tuners, however, and these will allow you to use tougher matches to antennas, such as the G5RV. See LDG's link to its list of compatible tuners, which I found in the text on the first page of their site. At the time of this writing, these include the Z-100 Plus, Z-11 Pro II, AT-100 PRO II, and AT-200 Pro II.  

** Note:  One op on Facebook's FT-891 Group claimed that he called LDG and confirmed his FT-857's matching YT-100 tuner works for the FT-891 also, but I cannot confirm that from anywhere else, and I suggest contacting LDG directly yourself, for the truth. They still do not list that as a compatible tuner for the FT-891.

Yaesu does sell its own tuner, matched for the radio, but I was left unimpressed. It's about the same size as the FT-891, but it's very pricey (well over $320). It only matches antennas up to 3.0 to 1, or better SWR, or thereabouts. That is NOT good enough for a G5RV on all bands.  What is the point of an external tuner so poor that it acts like a cheap internal?  Stupid.  It also clicks constantly as you tune, and pops up an annoying "WAIT" message on your FT-891, while you spin the dial. Search for YouTube videos showing it, to see what I'm talking about, then order an LDG model.  You can buy, or make an LDG cable that will interface, but it's not a requirement.

This is a radio that works best with an external tuner, but you can use a manual, such as an MFJ Versa Tuner (I do). Another ham gave me a great tip: Set the AM power output to something low, like 10 watts, and change over to AM for a tune-up on the band/frequency you want to use. Then switch back over to SSB, or whatever mode you are using. The FT-891's menus have a few different menu numbers to set power output using various modes. This is a bit confusing, but HF SSB PWR (16-01) is the SSB power output. Don't get it confused with HF PWR (16-03) which is actually something completely different (I think it's for digital power output). Don't ask me why -- it's odd.

Not a Great Digital Choice?


Another important mention, for digital ops. Although the FT-891 has a USB port, it does NOT have an internal sound card through USB.

* Update:  From AF5CC:
"The FT891 does digital VOX, so you buy the Yaesu CT-39A packet cable for $12, plug it into the DATA jack on the back, hook the other end to your soundcard, turn on the digital VOX, and you are done! When you go into data mode it will switch back and forth between RX and TX when you send and stop sending."
. Note, according to the ARRL, there may be phase noise issues, which mean you'd need to keep this rig below around 20w in digital use, or you (in theory) might mess with other operators in close proximity.  By reports I have read, it works great with FLDIGI.


On Panadapters and Earphone Jacks


It should also be noted that the FT-891 also has a panadapter. In truth, it is little more than a novelty, and not real-time unless the rig is silent. It may be useful in some situations, but don't buy the rig thinking you'll be using it much. You can set it to refresh itself every few seconds, but I find that's rather annoying. You can long-press the button and make it scan the band in real-time, but you lose sound while this is going on. Sound comes back when you exit the mode. The original big-brother FT-991 (non-A model) was the same way.


Lastly, the FT-891 has a small earphone plug output on its left side, which allows you to hear audio through headphones. It does work through both ears (although my rear speaker jack appears to be mono). There is a small adjustment switch behind the panel, which can change the front jack to either mono or stereo. Leave it on stereo, for best sound. Luckily, this semi-hidden front jack does not suffer from the HISS issues of the rear jack AS MUCH. Hopefully, Yaesu will work the problem out in future models, but it wasn't a deal-breaker for me, because the front jack works well enough.  If you listen at low volumes, avoid this rig, until (hopefully) updated.  

The Yaesu FT-891 is a steal of a rig, for the price. You're getting the newest technology from Yaesu, packed into a footprint slightly smaller than their dwarf powerhouse, the FT-857. True, you're giving up VHF/UHF, but we're living in a time when capable Chinese radios are $25, and low-end Yaesu VHF/UHF HT's are approaching $100. Sometimes it's actually nice to have a 2nd radio, so you can monitor everything, at the same time, so maybe it's not always best to have everything in one box? That's up to you, and your situation of use.

If you're interested in a new radio, at a bargain price-point, give the FT-891 a hard look.

As per accurate specs on power usage at transmit, and other engineering details, see this linked review:

http://radioaficion.com/news/yaesu-ft-891-review/

Advanced FT-891 manual is here:
http://yaesu.pl/conspark/images/pdfy/FT-891_AM.pdf